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 What To Do In Cromer When You’re (Nearly) Crumbed!  The title refers to you (and me, of course) getting a bit stale, and in need of a little change before it is too late. Look no further than Cromer, a small seaside resort in Norfolk. A week here may be viewed by some as being too many days in a Victorian setting, so here are some reasons for considering otherwise, possibly. For starters you don’t have to fly here. The drive (for us), though including the winding roads of Leicestershire, Lincolnshire and latterly Norfolk, is quite a treat on a Sunday, when the roads have fewer lorries, and these counties appear to have less traffic anyway. Add to that some pretty scenic moments and driving a car in this part of the UK can roll back the decades. (Tip: a good place for lunch is the newly refurbished The Coachman at Corby Glen). Biking inland from the town, avoiding the A roads, is a lovely treat – despite what appear to be hills in this county renowned for it’s flatness! I was soon riding through countryside littered with birdsong, small villages and wild flowers. As I rode through a cutting both banks were covered in primroses for a distance of 50 odd metres. It really is worth biking around these very rural lanes. Walk the woods, bike the lanes, is what I say. There are so many narrow byways that link so many small communities together. It is a step back into the recent past, or so it feels. However, the recent past Unspoilt seafront, absolutely lovely, with a pier to match. There is a lifeboat shop at the end, together with the actual lifeboat, which is launched down a ramp when the call comes. There is also a very moving selection of boards that list all of the launches and the outcomes. Coxswain Henry Blogg was the man during the main part of the 1900’s apparently, with an unequalled number of launches to help those in distress. When you think that going out just once, in horrendous conditions, would probably be enough to put our hearts firmly in amongst our teeth, he is definitely worth a mention here – if only to remind us of the unselfish bravery of these few men.
Take the train along the Bittern Line, which links Cromer to Norwich. Not only a very pleasant (and cheap) journey, but a lovely, friendly and small city is waiting to be discovered when you arrive. We grabbed a bus straight outside the station, still using our train ticket, to the UEA campus to visit the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts (see below). A bit of a journey amongst a right load of students in term time (two chaps within earshot were discussing the merits of an assignment that one of them was considering - disseminating the Batman films for their reality value…?!); from those we saw on the bus, apparently none were able to actually dress to kill, although I noticed one of the guys had a rather fetching handbag with him, which contrasted well with his hair highlights. Alas, the sixties are no more. There were two record shops worth a visit that I found, and both in St. Benedict’s Street – Circular Sound (second-hand vinyl and CD) and SoundClash Records, the only independent CD shop for a very long way, apparently. Take note, Tony: I bought Air France (S/H) but it is not for me, I’m afraid; At Swim Two Birds (RPM Quigley from the Montgolfier Brothers – new CD but a reasonable price in a charming digipak) is much more me, though, as is Saloon’s ‘If We Meet In The Future’. And, of course, I really enjoyed the browse! The Sainsbury Centre? Brilliant, absolutely brilliant! A Norman Foster building Go to the cinema! What a wonderful one it is in Cromer, tucked away in a side street, awaiting your arrival, and only a minute from our apartment. The Cromer Multiplex is neat, comfy and just plain lovely. We got to see Iron Man 2 (who starred in Sherlock Holmes along with yours truly recently) – not good, not good at all – and then we saw The Ghost, the new Polanski political thriller… what a cracker that is! Great stuff from start to finish… so, well done, Roman! Get the same apartment we have. The morning sun comes straight into the living room and kitchen, aided and abetted by the reflection off the sea, and a view of Cromer Church tower across the road to boot. Besides the cinema in close proximity there is a Budgens supermarket next door (yes, next door!) and always someone/something to watch on the street. Just email info@bettsbythesea.co.uk for all the details. Hope you get there sometime |
when measuring distances properly was secondary to sampling the local pub wares, I think. Here is a typical example: I was heading back to Cromer and the sign gave the distance as 7 miles. I biked at least a mile and came across a sign that read ‘Metton ½ mile Cromer 4 ¾’. After another mile the next signpost clearly stated ‘Metton ½ mile Cromer 3’. Eh!? Of course, it doesn’t matter. What does matter is that you take in as much of this rural tranquility as you can, while you can. (This includes being able to purchase any amount of bedding plants and flowers left at the garden gate, with a box for your money. I also saw jam, eggs and veg for sale in the very same way; a quite common occurrence, actually).
Do walk to Felbrigg Hall, through the grounds and on through the woods to Sheringham. Absolutely gorgeous! However, don’t try to walk the path that links Cromer to Sheringham along the coast. It is not THE coastal path (The Weaver Way) as this goes inland here, but a coast-hugging path that hugs what is left of the cliff edge. Here’s the rub: the cliffs are made of very friable material, and the cliff has been severely damaged in places this winter. We were made to exit a couple of hundred meters inland part way along (not allowed to cross a caravan site – bastards), and walk a narrow footpath besides the A149 with the traffic rushing up behind you... pretty horrible with it barely a metre from your elbow as it growled past. We managed to get down to the sea eventually, at East Runton, and walk the last mile or so along the beach. Apart from my arms turning blue from the wind this was much more pleasant than the ever-present threat of a badly driven motor vehicle.
housing/celebrating/juxtaposing art and artifacts in the most imposing way. Gosh, what a place… a half day is needed here to ensure you miss nothing. And I thought I didn’t like Francis Bacon’s paintings… how wrong can you be?!